alcohol stove questions

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seudo_411
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Location: South Africa

Re: alcohol stove questions

Post by seudo_411 » Mon Oct 20, 2008 12:21 pm

irrationalsolutions wrote:im going for fast boil time first then i was going to tweak it for efficiency.
Just re-read the entire thread, What pot are you using, because i have been working on a new system for myself, based on the Jetboil PCS cup, And considering the size and flame pattern of you stove, it might work even better by allowing the Flux-ring to absorb heat more evenly. The other thing is that considering the fact that pressure stoves burn fuel off faster as opposed to open designs, you'll want to go for a pot that absorbs the heat as fast as your stove can make it.

Look at Tony's 550ml cut-down Jetboil cup. Thats a really good pot, small light efficient. Not sure how big it actually is but still.

Oh and coincidently you can then tell people you have a JET(boil) with a AFTERBURNER. :D
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Tony
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Re: alcohol stove questions

Post by Tony » Mon Oct 20, 2008 5:20 pm

Just re-read the entire thread, What pot are you using, because i have been working on a new system for myself, based on the Jetboil PCS cup, And considering the size and flame pattern of you stove, it might work even better by allowing the Flux-ring to absorb heat more evenly. The other thing is that considering the fact that pressure stoves burn fuel off faster as opposed to open designs, you'll want to go for a pot that absorbs the heat as fast as your stove can make it.

Look at Tony's 550ml cut-down Jetboil cup. Thats a really good pot, small light efficient. Not sure how big it actually is but still.
The JB 550 does not like alcohol stoves, my tests show me that it is less efficient than the BPL 550 when using alcohol stoves????

This does not happen with the JetBoil 1.5l GCS pot, which works very nicely with alcohol stoves. (Using my volcano stove and the GCS I have had results of about 9.2g (11.5mls/0.39oz) of alcohol to raise 0.5l 80C)

I am not sure what is going on yet but I think it is to do with the fins slowing down the air flow and the flame does not get as much oxygen????.

With my Canister stoves the flux ring is more efficient as the most of the air mixing goes on before the burner.

Tony

irrationalsolutions
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Re: alcohol stove questions

Post by irrationalsolutions » Mon Oct 20, 2008 6:17 pm

it was harder than i though to find the bottles today. i found some with mountian dew and i heard that capri-sun has some. i know bud light uses them but i dont drink or but it anymore since they sold out. my arm hurts to day so i dont know if work will start tonight. with my arm still in the sling from the shoulder surgery work is slow but i cant stop once i get a progect in my head... i hardly slept for two months a couple years ago until i got a hydrogen generator working.
“Do or do not... there is NO try.” Yoda

Luke "Whats in (out) there?" Yoda "Only what you take with you."

Luke "I can’t believe it." Yoda "That is why you Fail.”

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zelph
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Re: alcohol stove questions

Post by zelph » Mon Oct 20, 2008 11:49 pm

irrationalsolutions wrote:it was harder than i though to find the bottles today. i found some with mountian dew and i heard that capri-sun has some. i know bud light uses them but i dont drink or but it anymore since they sold out. my arm hurts to day so i dont know if work will start tonight. with my arm still in the sling from the shoulder surgery work is slow but i cant stop once i get a progect in my head... i hardly slept for two months a couple years ago until i got a hydrogen generator working.
Get some rest overnight and get back at it tomorrow :mrgreen: Snapple Energy drink is available in aluminum bottles.

When you get a chance, post your information on how you made the Hydrogen Generator. Post it in the General Information Forum. I've been interested on how well they work and how they are applying them to suppliment fuel on cars.
http://www.woodgaz-stove.com/

irrationalsolutions
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Re: alcohol stove questions

Post by irrationalsolutions » Tue Oct 21, 2008 1:18 am

i did get started i couldn't help myself. i didnt do much having never worked with the bottles before. the sides were about as thick as i thought but the bottoms were something else. not having a drill press here or a lathe to work with this hole i need in the bottom may take some time to get right. i'm drilling small holes next to each other then cutting it smooth with a utility knife and plan to sand when done i made it about 1/4 way around before i stopped. i know hand turning the drill bit is a bad idea but without a drill press my drill keeps slipping becaues it has slope. does anyone have a better way? i first tried drilling a pilot hole on the flat part and use a paddle bit the right size but as i thought it chewed the metal up.
“Do or do not... there is NO try.” Yoda

Luke "Whats in (out) there?" Yoda "Only what you take with you."

Luke "I can’t believe it." Yoda "That is why you Fail.”

oops56
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Joined: Wed Sep 19, 2007 11:31 am

Re: alcohol stove questions

Post by oops56 » Tue Oct 21, 2008 1:32 am

Put a wood dowel in the vice side can drill hole against the dowel works for me. turn dowel a little for next if to many hole in dowel cut off for new.
Man play with fire man get burnt

DaddyMnM
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Re: alcohol stove questions

Post by DaddyMnM » Tue Oct 21, 2008 2:32 am

If you have a few bucks, you can buy a hole saw for your drill. You can also get cheap drum sanders for drills to clean up the hole you make with the circular row of little holes. I cut beer bottle cans with aircraft style tin snips and smooth the edge with a file or sandpaper.

If the beer bottle cans prove too tough to work, your original design didn't look too bad. Just needed to get it a little tighter. If you removed the can top re-enforcement rings, you could fold the outside can over and in to make lap joints and seal with JB weld. It may be that you could still use pop cans and use the bottoms instead of the tops. A can bottom can nest a smaller can in the groove in the perimeter of the pressure dome. This is easier to seal. On pop cans, you can cut out the dome by scoring with a utility knife a few times, then scoring an X across the center and whacking it with the handle of a hammer vertically.

irrationalsolutions
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Re: alcohol stove questions

Post by irrationalsolutions » Tue Oct 21, 2008 2:49 am

thats a good idea, i didnt think about the hole saw. i miss using big tools they can do so much more and faster. bytheway i was reading back through all the posts and i agree welding aluminum is hard a avoid it if i can but my dad can weld cans together all day long i dont know how he does it but i've watched it happen. and the more he drinks the more he wants to do it.
“Do or do not... there is NO try.” Yoda

Luke "Whats in (out) there?" Yoda "Only what you take with you."

Luke "I can’t believe it." Yoda "That is why you Fail.”

oops56
Posts: 1920
Joined: Wed Sep 19, 2007 11:31 am

Re: alcohol stove questions

Post by oops56 » Tue Oct 21, 2008 8:11 am

irrationalsolutions wrote:thats a good idea, i didnt think about the hole saw. i miss using big tools they can do so much more and faster. bytheway i was reading back through all the posts and i agree welding aluminum is hard a avoid it if i can but my dad can weld cans together all day long i dont know how he does it but i've watched it happen. and the more he drinks the more he wants to do it.
One more tip run you hole saw in reverse on slow for thin metal trust me.
Man play with fire man get burnt

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zelph
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Re: alcohol stove questions

Post by zelph » Tue Oct 21, 2008 10:43 am

irrationalsolutions wrote:i did get started i couldn't help myself. i didnt do much having never worked with the bottles before. the sides were about as thick as i thought but the bottoms were something else. not having a drill press here or a lathe to work with this hole i need in the bottom may take some time to get right. i'm drilling small holes next to each other then cutting it smooth with a utility knife and plan to sand when done i made it about 1/4 way around before i stopped. i know hand turning the drill bit is a bad idea but without a drill press my drill keeps slipping becaues it has slope. does anyone have a better way? i first tried drilling a pilot hole on the flat part and use a paddle bit the right size but as i thought it chewed the metal up.
If your drill has a reverse, run the paddle bit in reverse. Your can is supported underneat by a pice of 2x4 or some other type of wood. Just use short burts of on and off with the drill. Don't run it full bore. Let the bit turn slow.

If that does'nt work, use the paddle bit as a punch :roll: Unconventional for sure :mrgreen: but!!!! we need to get the hole in there, right. Work the bit around a tiny bit at a time just as you would the drill bit, using a hammer to hit the new found punch the 2 cutting tips on the paddle bit will do the punching :mrgreen: Ohhhh!!! I think I'm going to hear it from Decon Daren :mrgreen: :lol:

Do as Oops said, he learned from the best :mrgreen:
http://www.woodgaz-stove.com/

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