Page 1 of 7

alcohol stove questions

Posted: Sat Oct 18, 2008 11:44 pm
by irrationalsolutions
sorry but i'm kinda new to the alcohol stoves and was wondering a few things and this looks like the best place to ask. can anyone please tell me the best way to seal a soda can stove i have a few leaks.

Re: alcohol stove questions

Posted: Sat Oct 18, 2008 11:57 pm
by zelph
Mix up some JB weld epoxyand apply it to the inner sides befor assembly, wipe of excess. Wear disposable vinyl gloves. Gas stations may have a courtesy pair for changing oil inyour car.

Re: alcohol stove questions

Posted: Sun Oct 19, 2008 12:02 am
by irrationalsolutions
thats what i tried and when the heat got to it, it looks like those snake things you buy at the firework stands.

Re: alcohol stove questions

Posted: Sun Oct 19, 2008 2:43 am
by DaddyMnM
We'd have to have pictures to really tell, but it sounds like you have the JB weld in contact with the flame. JB weld is only rated to 500 degrees F. OK to use in the stove body, but not in direct contact with flame.

If JB weld foams like a fireworks snake, either you have fired up the stove before the JB weld fully cured or the JB weld was not properly mixed (too little hardener?) so it can't cure. When properly mixed and fully cured, if it fails, it turns color, becomes brittle, and cracks.

I have probably had more failures than most. I have seen the failures I describe above. From those failures I have learned it is generally better to be careful in the cutting and assembly so JB weld is not needed. If you have leaks due stress cracks or improperly sized or aligned parts, you are better off tossing it out and trying again. If you are doing a classic design like the Pepsi-G or Scott Henderson stoves you may just need to learn better techniques to size and assemble the parts. Assembly lube (I use vegetable oil) can help get a tighter fit during assembly.

JB weld is good for securing two cans halves as Zelph suggests, but it is best not to rely on it to correct design flaws.

Understanding failures is a great way to learn how to do it right. Check out the favorite failures thread for more:

viewtopic.php?f=41&t=448&st=0&sk=t&sd=a ... re&start=0

Also, there is a lot of good history captured in the stove tips threads:

viewforum.php?f=41

Re: alcohol stove questions

Posted: Sun Oct 19, 2008 3:45 am
by dlarson
JB Weld is certainly an option. I have some but haven't tried it out yet. I have resisted it up to this point due to its weight but some situations can't be handled any other way.

Something I have use when building pressurized pepsi jet type stoves is RTV Silicone head gasket sealer. I still have a bunch from when I decided to pull the engine out of my car just to change the head gasket. It's the blue RTV but if you have to buy some I'd suggest the high temp red RTV.

I spread a thin layer across the inside wall of the outer can and then slide the inner can into place. I then let it dry over night before use. If the two mating halves are too creased and/or crumpled then I consider the stove a failure and toss it out. The RTV will work for a while in that type of situation but will likely burn through in time.

Re: alcohol stove questions

Posted: Sun Oct 19, 2008 11:48 am
by irrationalsolutions
im trying something new and i have one area i need to seal but i think i can try using a beer can bottle and not have as big of a problem. if you want pictures i posted a video of a test on you tube last night. i use the same screen name i you tube. sorry but i havent figured out how to set up a link yet. :D

Re: alcohol stove questions

Posted: Sun Oct 19, 2008 11:51 am
by irrationalsolutions
sorry one area that needs to seal that is really close to the flame using the tin bottle i might be able to avoid that situation.

Re: alcohol stove questions

Posted: Sun Oct 19, 2008 1:10 pm
by DaddyMnM
Your afterburner stove looks pretty cool. I can see the leaks you are talking about. JB weld should work as long as the gaps aren't too big and not in direct flame contact. Strive for a tight fit and let the JB weld cure overnight before firing. You can accelerate curing in a toaster oven, but keep the heat low. Firing the stove is too hot. Of course, if you can make the design work without epoxy it'll last a lot longer.

One way to link is to simply cut and paste it in like so:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5z3ULm5SSGM

Re: alcohol stove questions

Posted: Sun Oct 19, 2008 2:32 pm
by irrationalsolutions
i've been thinking about it and watching the extended version of the test video. what do you guys think about really welding the one joint i have to worry about? my dads house is about an hour from me and he has a few welders one is setup to weld beer can on top of each other ( if the tube gets too long to fit in the shop or he burns through the cans he knows he has had too many and calls it a night.)

Re: alcohol stove questions

Posted: Sun Oct 19, 2008 3:45 pm
by DaddyMnM
I'd be very surprised if you could weld aluminum cans successfully. Aluminum welding can be a challenge in and of itself, but the thin gauge and plastic coatings make it even tougher.

I would think it would be easier to find two cans that nest together well like a red bull energy drink can and a monster drink can. Then cut two complete cylinders, put one inside the other, and roll and crimp the ends together. The stove making tips have tips on both hot and cold roll crimping techniques.