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The pot I used for my tests is made by MIRRO, it is 5 1/4 diameter, holds 3 cups H2O, made of aluminum. Never ever watch your pot and expect it to boil I never take the lid off when testing. I watch for the steam to lift the lid and then I know its a rolin boil. Using a thermometer is for engineers
The potstand/windscreen needs the X grid to get the 4 min boil .
The pot stand full of holes(50% windscreen) is made from the OUTER workings of an OILFILTER Thats it to the right of the stand.
Further to the right are to containers of hand sanitizer, gelled alcohol, go check it out at your local stores. Burns ok, smells good when it burns, leaves a great smellin residue. One of you wanted to gel some naptha right, lighter fluid is naptha, naptha is almost pure gasoline Napalm, gelled naptha. Be carefull!!!!!!!
Acetic Acid is sold in Photographic supply stores, is used in making stop bath for pics. (glacial acetic Acid) concentrated stuff I bet you wonder how I know all this stuff
The wick material is the stuff that got soaked. Shown is two pieces, one on right the strands runing horizontal are the warp, the one on the left the strands run verticle are the weft . In my test the strands were verticle, just like the wick material in a karosene heater.
The cup in the background, alum. 3 cup, did not boil water with 20ml fuel, go figure. 5 1/4 dia, pot is close to ideal container to boil h2o for me.
Did a little nip and tuck on the perforated pot stand/windscreen it now weighs in at 16 grams.
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This is the aluminum version, weighs 56 grams, 1.97 ounces, big difference in weight compared to the copper original.
1st phot shows top view of increased 7/8 inch core diameter. Did that to increase center flame for increased heat at very center of pot.
2nd shows size of hole compared to size of quarter also shows small shelf inside potstand where stove will be permanently mounted. Made the pot stand out of hardware cloth. 3rd shows stove mounted in center of potstand ready to go. Doing it this way eliminated the need for the soldered base as shown in the original prototype.
Will do some test boils over the weekend.
This is how the flames look using denatured alchohol.
Body is made of 1 1/2 copper pipe cap.
Center is made of 1/2 copper pipe.
Simmer ring is steel
Solder the 1/2 pipe to the inside of the cap then drill from the top through the half inch pipe down through the cap.
Low profile base is a knockout plug found in electrical departments of your local hardware or big box stores. Solder it to base.
Put a fiberglass wick in it, 20 ml.of denatured alchohol, now your ready to boil 2 cups of water in 4 min. (65 degree air and water temp. to start)
The central flame has made a significant increase in fuel eficiency over my original megawick design.
All of the fuel is absorbed into the wick. That means no fuel can spill out in the event that it should be knocked over.
The low profile base allows air to pass under and into the central core of the stove.
Very little heat is transferred to the base, stays cool enough you can hold it in your hand while it burns. No more burned picknick tables, countertops, etc..
The other two photos show some clips attached to the stove to be used as a pot stand. One is "squat" the other is "stretch".
Come check out a compilation of Zelph's stove designs.
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