Compare two stoves

The stove creations of Oops56 and a Collection of Vintage Stoves of the Past
oops56
Posts: 1920
Joined: Wed Sep 19, 2007 11:31 am

Compare two stoves

Postby oops56 » Sun Apr 20, 2008 2:22 am

O K i got tinny's pro type wick stove free also i made a copy of Zelph Starlyte a little different

Tinny's wick 1/2 oz. fuel 16 oz. water 68F 8 min good and hot 9 min burn just start to roll boil flame out
My Starlite had to rename it :lol: :lol: 1/2 oz. fuel water 16 oz. 68F 8 min. rolling boil 12-1/2 burn time.


Image
Man play with fire man get burnt

Allen
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Joined: Tue Feb 26, 2008 11:50 pm

Re: Compare two stoves

Postby Allen » Sun Apr 20, 2008 2:35 am

Thanks for the test and the report oops56!

Cheers!

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russb
Posts: 385
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Location: New York

Re: Compare two stoves

Postby russb » Sun Apr 20, 2008 6:26 am

I like the stand on the starlyte clone. How'd you make that?

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zelph
Posts: 15822
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Re: Compare two stoves

Postby zelph » Thu Jul 31, 2008 4:14 pm

Was that the cool fly stove?

Here's the latest on how he's gone to school on some of you. It's not the stoves shortcomings, it's yours. You're not cooking on the right surface :roll:

Don't use the stove on wooden shelter floors :lol:

After his customers are experiencing problems is when he does his extensive research :lol:

Here is the latest on his blog:

COOLFLY update
After many hours of research and testing I have finally figured out why some people have had overheating problems with the COOLFLY#1 stove while other have had none. The problem has to do with the surface the stove is setting on. If the surface is hard and smooth as well as level and is a heavy or high mass object like a brick rock or even the ground and it is level enough for the stove base to make good contact. Then the heat from the stove will be carryed away by the surface. My test bench is a very level smooth brick.----BUT---if the surface the stove is placed on is uneven or a poor conducter of heat, like wood or formica then the surface will insulate the stove base and not conduct heat. This is enough to make the difference between an overheat situation and a cool burn. The front of an AT shelter is where most hikers cook and the beam they cook on is uneven wood. This is a very poor conducter and the reason my COOLFLY#1 tends to run too hot when used on my last trip. I am in the process of redesigning the COOLFLY and replacing it with the COOLFLY#2 This will include a black body and probably a carry case that doubles as a heatsink for the base. But if this makes it too heavy or too bulky or doesn't make it an improvement over the BF#3 then it will not be offered. If you have a COOLFLY and you are just not happy with it I will allow the original price you payed twards a BF#3 or other stove, if you send it back to me.---Tinny---
http://www.woodgaz-stove.com/

oops56
Posts: 1920
Joined: Wed Sep 19, 2007 11:31 am

Re: Compare two stoves

Postby oops56 » Thu Jul 31, 2008 5:25 pm

zelph wrote:Was that the cool fly stove?

Here's the latest on how he's gone to school on some of you. It's not the stoves shortcomings, it's yours. You're not cooking on the right surface :roll:

Don't use the stove on wooden shelter floors :lol:

After his customers are experiencing problems is when he does his extensive research :lol:

Here is the latest on his blog:

COOLFLY update
After many hours of research and testing I have finally figured out why some people have had overheating problems with the COOLFLY#1 stove while other have had none. The problem has to do with the surface the stove is setting on. If the surface is hard and smooth as well as level and is a heavy or high mass object like a brick rock or even the ground and it is level enough for the stove base to make good contact. Then the heat from the stove will be carryed away by the surface. My test bench is a very level smooth brick.----BUT---if the surface the stove is placed on is uneven or a poor conducter of heat, like wood or formica then the surface will insulate the stove base and not conduct heat. This is enough to make the difference between an overheat situation and a cool burn. The front of an AT shelter is where most hikers cook and the beam they cook on is uneven wood. This is a very poor conducter and the reason my COOLFLY#1 tends to run too hot when used on my last trip. I am in the process of redesigning the COOLFLY and replacing it with the COOLFLY#2 This will include a black body and probably a carry case that doubles as a heatsink for the base. But if this makes it too heavy or too bulky or doesn't make it an improvement over the BF#3 then it will not be offered. If you have a COOLFLY and you are just not happy with it I will allow the original price you payed twards a BF#3 or other stove, if you send it back to me.---Tinny---

He got a lot bull the only time that it boil over was the wind screen was to close to pot and to hi. it got to be short and open up a little in front. That is all no problem with mine. :lol: :lol:
Man play with fire man get burnt

oops56
Posts: 1920
Joined: Wed Sep 19, 2007 11:31 am

Re: Compare two stoves

Postby oops56 » Thu Jul 31, 2008 5:46 pm

oops56 wrote:
zelph wrote:Was that the cool fly stove?

Here's the latest on how he's gone to school on some of you. It's not the stoves shortcomings, it's yours. You're not cooking on the right surface :roll:

Don't use the stove on wooden shelter floors :lol:

After his customers are experiencing problems is when he does his extensive research :lol:

Here is the latest on his blog:

COOLFLY update
After many hours of research and testing I have finally figured out why some people have had overheating problems with the COOLFLY#1 stove while other have had none. The problem has to do with the surface the stove is setting on. If the surface is hard and smooth as well as level and is a heavy or high mass object like a brick rock or even the ground and it is level enough for the stove base to make good contact. Then the heat from the stove will be carryed away by the surface. My test bench is a very level smooth brick.----BUT---if the surface the stove is placed on is uneven or a poor conducter of heat, like wood or formica then the surface will insulate the stove base and not conduct heat. This is enough to make the difference between an overheat situation and a cool burn. The front of an AT shelter is where most hikers cook and the beam they cook on is uneven wood. This is a very poor conducter and the reason my COOLFLY#1 tends to run too hot when used on my last trip. I am in the process of redesigning the COOLFLY and replacing it with the COOLFLY#2 This will include a black body and probably a carry case that doubles as a heatsink for the base. But if this makes it too heavy or too bulky or doesn't make it an improvement over the BF#3 then it will not be offered. If you have a COOLFLY and you are just not happy with it I will allow the original price you payed twards a BF#3 or other stove, if you send it back to me.---Tinny---

He got a lot bull the only time that it boil over was the wind screen was to close to pot and to hi. it got to be short and open up a little in front. That is all no problem with mine. :lol: :lol:


Yep one more thing his stoves gets shop tested for a week then go on sale. To me it should be field test by 3 or 4 different guys for 1week or more out in the field like some of us all over different parts county

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zelph
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Joined: Tue Aug 14, 2007 1:53 pm

Re: Compare two stoves

Postby zelph » Thu Jul 31, 2008 7:28 pm

He got a lot bull the only time that it boil over was the wind screen was to close to pot and to hi. it got to be short and open up a little in front. That is all no problem with mine.


It's not a lot of bull!!!!! He is getting legitimate complaints. His findings are exactly what he states in his blog. Tinny screwed up again. I told you it was going to happen.

You buy his stoves and use them on your bench top a few times and that's it. No field testing. That's probably the case with many of those that buy his stoves, they use them at home and thats it.

Even if someone had the windscreen too close, tinny would be telling everyone about it. Wasn't that one of the problems with another stove. The guy has some real problems.
http://www.woodgaz-stove.com/

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Ridgerunner
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Location: SW, Ohio
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Re: Compare two stoves

Postby Ridgerunner » Thu Jul 31, 2008 9:25 pm

To me it should be field test by 3 or 4 different guys for 1week or more out in the field like some of us all over different parts county


Your right Oops. Bench testing and field testing are two different animals. If it passes the bench test, then Tinny should send a dozen out to his "Cult" members for field testing. Only then, will he have the results he is looking for. You say you got your stove free? Are you one of Tinnys testers? :lol:
"Many of lifes failures are people who did not realize how close they were to success when they gave up".....Thomas Edison

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oops56
Posts: 1920
Joined: Wed Sep 19, 2007 11:31 am

Re: Compare two stoves

Postby oops56 » Fri Aug 01, 2008 1:47 am

Ridgerunner wrote:
To me it should be field test by 3 or 4 different guys for 1week or more out in the field like some of us all over different parts county


Your right Oops. Bench testing and field testing are two different animals. If it passes the bench test, then Tinny should send a dozen out to his "Cult" members for field testing. Only then, will he have the results he is looking for. You say you got your stove free? Are you one of Tinnys testers? :lol:


No i am not one of his tester i got it in trader box that was going a round.
Man play with fire man get burnt

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zelph
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Re: Compare two stoves

Postby zelph » Fri Aug 01, 2008 3:38 pm

I think there is a video of tiny testing it on a stump or something. In cold weather when it it didn't over heat. It's a cold weather stove only, summer months it over heats. Back to the drawing board. First the wicks deteriorated and broke and now we have overheating. Buyers beware. Remember the first one, you had to put water into the outer tin to keep it cool :roll:
http://www.woodgaz-stove.com/


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