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Re: THE BEANER - WorldStoveUSA

Posted: Thu Feb 18, 2010 10:54 am
by zelph
We don't want to use this one as an alcohol stove or wood burning stove on a backpacking trip. I think we'll find that it's stove that will get us interested in "gasification of wood"

There is a lengthy thread taking place over at Hammock Forums on the subject of wood burning stoves. Three of the members have purchased Beaner stoves and have done some testing. I'll be quoting from some of their comments relating to the Beaner. So far 2 of them are not convinced it's a good choice for backpacking. I will gather their comments and post them here.

Re: THE BEANER - WorldStoveUSA

Posted: Thu Feb 18, 2010 12:24 pm
by realityguy
"gasification of wood"
Oh..NOW I know why it's called the "beaner"... :mrgreen:

Re: THE BEANER - WorldStoveUSA

Posted: Thu Feb 18, 2010 5:42 pm
by zelph
realityguy wrote:
"gasification of wood"
Oh..NOW I know why it's called the "beaner"... :mrgreen:
You catch on quick!!! :mrgreen:

Here is some info from Hammock Forums: a link to the 51 page thread and then some quotes and links.

"TLUD Stoves" on Hammock Forums

Tests performed by "Pedro" and "Sailor"

By "Pedro" ... tcount=220

Up to this point, I've been talking about using this stove with pellets. Pellets are a very compact, granular, dense fuel compared to sticks and twigs. And there's the problem as I see it. This stove seems to work best with the compact type of fuel. The testing that I have done so far with sticks and twigs has been very disappointing. It looks like the burn chamber is just too small to work very well with this type of fuel. Too much air gets through the fuel pile. The wood I was using is less than half as dense as pellets, and burned up very quickly. I also tested with mesquite chips, with more or less the same results. I am going to do some more testing, but my initial impressions are that because the burn chamber is so small, I cannot use it in the field unless I want to carry my own fuel. It also does not perform nearly as well as my tin can stove for the task of boiling water in a short time without undue sooting of my pot. This is also due to the burn chambers very small size. I would think that for agricultural waste products like nut shells, cherry pits, or dried dung (all of which are very compact fuel sources) this stove would perform fine, if a little slow. For a stove that uses foraged sticks, I don't think that this will work.
Messing around with this stove has taught me a few things, and I might keep it even if I can't make it work for my intended use. I am eagerly awaiting results from others.

by"Sailor" ... 25&page=30

Tonight I did three test burns with the Beaner, using pellets:
1) normal configuration, as described by NM, with soda can as outer wall, holes near bottom of soda can;
2) shortened soda can, no bottom, and bottom above inner walls lower holes, which should a) reduce draw (shorter length); b) reduce volatiles exhaust from lower inner wall holes traveling up by venturi or any other effect to upper inner wall holes (where the flames are seen; c) no out can at all

1) burns seemed remarkably similar; flame patterns, heights, colors didn't look any different; maybe the #a config produced a slightly higher flame, but only by 1/2" or so;
2) clearly little or no interface / exchange between upper/lower inner wall holes in config #c.
3) only very small amounts of glowing coals; however, looking in through lower holes, very visible.
4) (Most interesting to me). #c seemed the most interesting burn. After things settled down, I had greater percentage of blue flame than other configs. Also had the most destinct flame, although the top of the flame was the lowest, as follows:
41) a nearly perfectly shaped "crown" or halo, little spikes from each hole, nearly entire crown blue, beginning about 1/3" from inner walls and extending to about 1/2" from inner walls, leaving a center section nearly 1" dia free of visible flame.
42) the tips of the crown bent upward, as flames are wont to do, and then nearly disappeared.
43) extending up from the rising crown, beginning above the level of the three large holes at the top of the cylinder, a tri-tipped flame--clearly moving air through those holes. This flame had a little blue, but mostly yellow. I had wondered at other times why the flame was never perfectly shaped in the normal configs, since it seemed so round as it started. Tonight, I was in the garage because of rain, so no air currents, and with the outer wall off, less velocity on the upper ring of holes, and the air flow of the 3 large holes was evident and explained.
44) After flame done, I poured out the char. Important to note, the lowest level of pellets was unmolested--still unchared, light brown. It would appear that the stove ran out of downward heat force as it passed the lower ring of holes.

I don't see TLOD in the Beaner, no matter the config. Venturi effect needs speed. At low flow velocities, its a small factor. I believe, like with physics strong/weak forces, the heat rising force is a far greater effect than venturi. That being said, the smoothness of the Beaner helps flow I'm sure. I plan on doing a much better job the out can to improve flow rates, and see what happens. Also, am building a cylinder twice as high to look for greater flow.

PS> ON the last burn, I inverted an outer wall can on top of the Beaner. Flow/flame was accelerated, and interestingly, the triple flame mentioned above pulled sideways and ran up the wider walls of the soda can, rather than continuing up at the rough circumference of the Beaner. Cool effect, and I will pursue that too.

After all this, I realize I could take pics. Here #c. However, they don't do justice to how symetrical and "perfect" the flame looked.


I'll be using twigs during my tests to see how it does with trail fuel.

After you finish reading the entire thread on Top Lit Up Draft (TLUD) stoves read the thread on bplite where I test a Beaner stove and give the results.

Re: THE BEANER - WorldStoveUSA

Posted: Thu Feb 18, 2010 8:42 pm
by DarenN
i just burned a load of alcohol in my Fart Stove.
totally unacceptable burn.
the upper ring of small holes did absolutely nothing at all.
just a pillar of fire with tiny indents in the flame at the three large upper holes.

i had made the outer can to specs in the PDF that RG posted a link to.
i'm going to try and get the top of the outer can to seal a little better to the stove body and try again.

Re: THE BEANER - WorldStoveUSA

Posted: Thu Feb 18, 2010 9:20 pm
by DarenN
second alcohol burn,
with the top of the outer can in complete contact with the stove body.
much less radical burn,
but still no action at the upper row of small holes.

i'm going to try a load of Cedar with alcohol for starter fluid.
we'll see what shakes out.

Re: THE BEANER - WorldStoveUSA

Posted: Thu Feb 18, 2010 10:21 pm
by DarenN
the cedar burn.
i loosely packed the the stove with very dry cedar strips, 3/8"x3/16"x~2 1/2" long, dumped a half ounce of alcohol in and lit it.
it took nearly ten minutes for it to bloom and the top row of small holes take over and start looking like jets.
very yellow flame and not very hot. i could pass my hand over the top of the stove very slowly without any discomfort from the heat.
coals still glowing in the bottom after half an hour, but so little heat left that i could pick up the stove.

i certainly wouldn't buy one; and i won't spend any more time on it.

Re: THE BEANER - WorldStoveUSA

Posted: Thu Feb 18, 2010 10:57 pm
by zelph
i just burned a load of alcohol in my Fart Stove.
You catch on fast also :mrgreen:

Giving up already :o ......tomorrow I'll cut my own outer can chamber :roll: for 57 smakers you'ld think they would do it for you :roll: They got ya by the shorts, if you have a problem getting the stove to work right, they will say it's the cut the can wrong ....or they will say it's "Bad Fuel"...your bag of pellets has been open too long and collected too much moisture. :roll: Daren your fuel is bad!!!!! :lol:

Re: THE BEANER - WorldStoveUSA

Posted: Thu Feb 18, 2010 11:09 pm
by realityguy
I think Daren used the wrong cedar tree..supposed to cut from that one over there---> :lol: :chop:

I think this is more appropriate fuel... :dollar: ..Did you try burning those? :lol:

Well..didn't get the heinekin today so I guess I saved myself $3.00 if I don't waste time and finish the Big Beaner..but wasted $2 by drilling a water bottle...Oh well...

Re: THE BEANER - WorldStoveUSA

Posted: Thu Feb 18, 2010 11:25 pm
by DarenN
zelph wrote: Daren your fuel is bad!!!!! :lol:
funny then, cause i burned the best heat source available for a hot fast fire. Dry Western Red Cedar.
in the alcohol tests i saw no action from the upper row of holes. on the website, they seem to show alcohol makeing pretty jets at that top row. not in my tests. and the burn was very rich. burning my eyes.

i may not have given up yet. i thought of something else that might work more like pellets, (if pellets actually work). i'll use a hand lopper (pruner) to cut small pieces of wood, instead of the sticks, but i'm not holding out much hope. another idea is to break up pine cones into their individual little leaves. "pellets" don't grow on trees so i won't even bother trying to find them.

Re: THE BEANER - WorldStoveUSA

Posted: Fri Feb 19, 2010 11:17 am
by zelph
another idea is to break up pine cones into their individual little leaves. "pellets" don't grow on trees so i won't even bother trying to find them.
Great idea, do that Daren that would be a good test.

I cut the top off a 12fl oz root beer can just as the instructions said, with a serrated knife, cafeteria style....worked like a charm. Were off to a good start :D

I then inserted the Beaner into the can. It was a little bit tight but made it fit without deforming the can, fits like a glove. So were off to a real good start.
Next I'll make the holes in the can and then a test burn.