Cold Water and stove design

Give results of stoves tested. At least three test burns made in succession using 1/2 ounce of denatured alcohol and 2 cups of water. Give any and all additional conditions that exist during testing.

Stoves bought retail and Do-It-Yourself stoves. Everyone is welcome to post their results and post comments.
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zelph
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Cold Water and stove design

Postby zelph » Thu Feb 21, 2013 12:35 am



"Nothing Ventured Nothing Gained" stove store = http://www.woodgaz-stove.com/

sudden
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Re: Cold Water and stove design

Postby sudden » Sat Mar 02, 2013 5:59 pm

I like SOTO's designs but that micro regulator seems more of a convenience item. Am I wrong about this, couldn't you just open the other stoves valve manually and get the same effect?
"People are not persuaded by what we say, but rather by what they understand."

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zelph
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Re: Cold Water and stove design

Postby zelph » Sat Mar 02, 2013 7:21 pm

sudden wrote:I like SOTO's designs but that micro regulator seems more of a convenience item. Am I wrong about this, couldn't you just open the other stoves valve manually and get the same effect?


There is a thread over at backpackinglight.com that prompted me to start a thread showing a small difference in design can make a difference in fuel efficiency.

View the thread that came first and then the one I started. Then let me know when your finished.

First thread: http://www.backpackinglight.com/cgi-bin ... d_id=73386

My thread: http://www.backpackinglight.com/cgi-bin ... d_id=73767
"Nothing Ventured Nothing Gained" stove store = http://www.woodgaz-stove.com/

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russb
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Re: Cold Water and stove design

Postby russb » Sun Mar 03, 2013 8:05 am

It wasn't until page 3 where HJ finally hit on why he didn't see any difference in the two stoves. We all know that as temps drop, the canisters stoves eventually will not work. HJ tested both stoves below that threshold and concluded the regulator made no difference, which is obvious as no stove can compensate to vaporize the liquid when it is below the bp. However, on page 3 he finally noted exactly what the video showed, that at temps right around freezing, the unregulated stove begins to fail, while the regulated one does not. As the temp decreases more, eventually both stoves will fail (this s what HJ showed). The experiments do not contradict, they are just demonstrating two different results due to two different temps.

The thread you started reminded us that you did the same experiment years ago showing that as the temps drop to close to freezing, the pressurized alky stoves begin to get finicky so a slight modification will allow it to "act normallY at the given temp (freezing). I loaned my cobalt to someone and it was never returned (and never owned a WB), so I don't know if either/both will eventually fail to light/bloom at some low temp threshold. Liquid nitrogen would certainly be below the threshold for almost any stove since its bp is -320F. Liquid CO2 is a little better at -110F.

I do know the FF and the Starlyte have never failed to work even in the lowest temps I could find (minus 22*F).

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zelph
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Re: Cold Water and stove design

Postby zelph » Sun Mar 03, 2013 6:25 pm

Hikin_Jim's reporting is flawed. Takes others to make him see the light. If he pays attention, someday he'll get it right.

I think it's obvious the Soto's regulator orifice is smaller than the one it's compared to. As I pointed out, Soto says "almost" when it describes output..

Not only does the Cobalt jets ignite faster for more efficiency, it has the copper wick that makes it much easier to light in cold freezing temperatures.

I think it's cute how Bill Ballowe admits he added wick to make his stove design better. :D
"Nothing Ventured Nothing Gained" stove store = http://www.woodgaz-stove.com/


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