White Box Stove

Give results of stoves tested. At least three test burns made in succession using 1/2 ounce of denatured alcohol and 2 cups of water. Give any and all additional conditions that exist during testing.

Stoves bought retail and Do-It-Yourself stoves. Everyone is welcome to post their results and post comments.
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DarenN
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Re: White Box Stove

Post by DarenN » Wed Apr 30, 2008 12:32 pm

what were you useing for fuel? or is the orange flame caused by in-efficient burning?

Daren......
"I'd rather be happy than right." Slartibartfast

beemerphill
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Re: White Box Stove

Post by beemerphill » Wed Apr 30, 2008 12:35 pm

What kind of drink can is it made from? What is the diamater and height?
I made one like this out of a Bud Luminum Long Neck. It took over a minute to bloom too.
The burn on my thumb is still healing after a week.
A needle nose pliars seems to be the hot ticket for match holding with this design.

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zelph
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Re: White Box Stove

Post by zelph » Wed Apr 30, 2008 12:59 pm

Daren, I was using denatured alcohol, same stuff as I use in all stoves testing. The flame color is indicating inefficient burn, thus the blackening of my pot around the outside of it. All through it's cycle it has the orange tipped flames. I'll be testing it on a Heinyken pot this evening to see what happens.

by beemerphill on Wed Apr 30, 2008 12:35 pm

What kind of drink can is it made from? What is the diamater and height?
I made one like this out of a Bud Luminum Long Neck. It took over a minute to bloom too.
The burn on my thumb is still healing after a week.
A needle nose pliars seems to be the hot ticket for match holding with this design.
What kind of drink can is it made from? What is the diamater and height?
I made one like this out of a Bud Luminum Long Neck. It took over a minute to bloom too.
The burn on my thumb is still healing after a week.
A needle nose pliars seems to be the hot ticket for match holding with this design.
I believe bill said it was a beer bottle. For sure you need the longest match you can get. Throwing a match down into the stove may be a way to light it. :?
:D Lots of metal in the aluminum bottle stoves to heat up befor the fuel starts to vaporize and come out the holes. The stove retains it's hottness after it goes out, don't be in a hurry to pick it up and put it elsewhere. ;)
http://www.woodgaz-stove.com/

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DarenN
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Re: White Box Stove

Post by DarenN » Wed Apr 30, 2008 1:38 pm

zelph wrote:Daren, I was using denatured alcohol, same stuff as I use in all stoves testing. The flame color is indicating inefficient burn, thus the blackening of my pot around the outside of it. All through it's cycle it has the orange tipped flames. I'll be testing it on a Heinyken pot this evening to see what happens.
Hhhmmmm........
what size are the jets?

i think i read (on hikinghq?) that an orange flame means too much oxygen. perhaps a change of jet size in in order? i'm thinking smaller.

Daren........
"I'd rather be happy than right." Slartibartfast

beemerphill
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Re: White Box Stove

Post by beemerphill » Wed Apr 30, 2008 1:53 pm

The first reply that I posted to this thread got eaten by the web monster. Let's see if this one makes it. Or you might see two of the same. In which case, I screwed up.
What kind of drink can is the white box stove made out of?
What are it's height and diamater?
I tried to make one like this out of a Luminum Long Neck Bud bottle. It took a little over a minute to bloom. Two cups of
room temp water boiled in a little over 7 min. after bloom. I just splashed some Yellow bottle Heet in it-not measured.
This was last week. The burn scar on my thumb is almost half gone. Next time I'll be smart enough to use a pliers to light a new stove up the first time.
This was a very interesting and thurough test.
Thanks

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zelph
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Re: White Box Stove

Post by zelph » Wed Apr 30, 2008 4:57 pm

I take back what I said about bill saying it was made from a beer bottle. I says recycled aluminum thats all.
http://www.woodgaz-stove.com/

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Ridgerunner
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Re: White Box Stove

Post by Ridgerunner » Wed Apr 30, 2008 9:09 pm

I did three sucessive test burns on the Whitebox Stove tonight using 32 degree ice water for all three test and the provided windscreen. Here were my results.

Test #1

1/2 oz. denatured alcohol
H2O 32*
Outside temp 65*
Blume time 67 sec.
Flame out 7:07
H2O temp 185*
Actual cook time 6:00

Test #2

1/2 oz. denatured alcohol
H2O 32*
Outside temp 65*
Blume time 60 sec.
Flame out 6:40
Water temp. 185*
actual cook time 5:40

Test #3

3/4 oz. denatured alcohol
H2O 32*
Outside temp 65*
Blume time 64 sec.
Flame out 7:50
Rolling boil 6:15
Actual boil time 5:11

Starting water temp makes a big difference as I was not able to obtain the 5 minute boil times I had got with 40* tap water. In other words. You will need a bit more fuel to cook with in winter weather! ;)
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billinmt
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Re: White Box Stove

Post by billinmt » Thu May 01, 2008 12:26 am

To combat slow bloom times why don't you guys try to use the heat shield as a primer pan. That is one reason we include it in the stove combo. It will ignite in about 20 seconds. Since the material used in this stove is so much thicker than a pop can or cat food stove it is only natural for it to take a longer time to reach bloom temps. No big deal to most people. My guess is if you would try blowing air across the top of the stove at about 75 seconds into the burn it would have bloomed then. At least it always has every time I tried it.

I've done several hundred burns with this stove and have yet to get a sooty pot and yellow flames like you show. My guess is you are using tainted fuel because you are the only person that I know who that has had the yellow flames appear except for the 2 guy who used red bottled HEET and Coleman fuel. With this stove yellow flames indicate bad fuel not bad jetting. Other wise everyone who burns denatured alcohol would have the same problem but they don't. Switch brands or get new fuel and you will get a more realistic feeling for how this stove works. I guess I will have to do my own video to show you how it is done with clean fuel.

Also this stove is designed for wider bottom pots so using a Heineken pot won't get good results. If you don't use a product for its intended use then your results will always be different.
I mean you don't use a unicycle in the Tour De France do you.

Bill in MT
Last edited by billinmt on Thu May 01, 2008 12:56 am, edited 1 time in total.

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zelph
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Re: White Box Stove

Post by zelph » Thu May 01, 2008 12:43 am

billinmt wrote:Why don't you guys try to use the heat shield as a primer pan. That is one reason we include it in the stove combo. It will ignite in about 20 seconds. Since the material used in this stove is so much thicker than a pop can or cat food stove it is only natural for it to take a longer time to reach bloom temps. No big deal to most people.

My guess is if you would try blowing air across the top of the stove at about 75 seconds into the burn it would have bloomed then. At least it always has every time I tried it.

I've done several hundred burns with this stove and have yet to get a sooty pot. My guess is you are using tainted fuel because you are the only person that I know who that has happened to except in Australia and New Zealand where there methyl alcohol has something in it that doesn't work as well with this stove.

Bill in MT
There is a method to our madness. I'll go out tomorrow and buy a fresh gallon of denatured. It will be my tenth gallon :D Maybe I got a batch made in the OZ :o By the end of the testing we will have all the little tricks to make the stove work. I tried lighting it in 80 degree air temps today and it worked fine.
http://www.woodgaz-stove.com/

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zelph
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Re: White Box Stove

Post by zelph » Thu May 01, 2008 5:26 pm

billinmt wrote:To combat slow bloom times why don't you guys try to use the heat shield as a primer pan. That is one reason we include it in the stove combo. It will ignite in about 20 seconds. Since the material used in this stove is so much thicker than a pop can or cat food stove it is only natural for it to take a longer time to reach bloom temps. No big deal to most people. My guess is if you would try blowing air across the top of the stove at about 75 seconds into the burn it would have bloomed then. At least it always has every time I tried it.

I've done several hundred burns with this stove and have yet to get a sooty pot and yellow flames like you show. My guess is you are using tainted fuel because you are the only person that I know who that has had the yellow flames appear except for the 2 guy who used red bottled HEET and Coleman fuel. With this stove yellow flames indicate bad fuel not bad jetting. Other wise everyone who burns denatured alcohol would have the same problem but they don't. Switch brands or get new fuel and you will get a more realistic feeling for how this stove works. I guess I will have to do my own video to show you how it is done with clean fuel.

Also this stove is designed for wider bottom pots so using a Heineken pot won't get good results. If you don't use a product for its intended use then your results will always be different.
I mean you don't use a unicycle in the Tour De France do you.

Bill in MT
So far no luck finding a gallon of the same brand that I was using. I'll try again later this evening when I'm out and about.
To combat slow bloom times why don't you guys try to use the heat shield as a primer pan. That is one reason we include it in the stove combo.
The instruction sheet that came with the stove says nothing about using the heat sheild as a primer pan. There is no information on the sheet indicating that it is necessary to prime the stove. I would speculate that 75 percent of the people that purchased your stove would not have done so if they new they had to prime it in cooler temps. Most of those that hang around on this site know all about priming a stove. Those that are just looking from a distance and not signing in are grateful for informing them of the fact that your stove does need to be primed in cooler temps. Priming takes more fuel, that equates to less efficiency.
My guess is if you would try blowing air across the top of the stove at about 75 seconds into the burn it would have bloomed then. At least it always has every time I tried it.
Bill, that's a good tip. No where could I find that on the instruction sheet. Those that are viewing from a distance will find that beneficial. Most of the stove builders that are logged in know that blowing on the stove will direct heat/flames to the rim and over to the vapors coming out of the holes. Newbies that are lurking don't know that. We're here to educate them in one way or another.
I've done several hundred burns with this stove and have yet to get a sooty pot and yellow flames like you show. My guess is you are using tainted fuel because you are the only person that I know who that has had the yellow flames appear except for the 2 guy who used red bottled HEET and Coleman fuel. With this stove yellow flames indicate bad fuel not bad jetting.
I understand this to mean I can't tell the difference between good fuel and bad. I've burned 8 gallons of denatured alcohol in 1/2 ounce increments over a period of 3 years. 2 or 3 gallons of HEET. Maybe 2 pints of Red Bottled HEET. I know how the three fuels look when
burned through stove jets at various hole sizes. I mentioned nothing about bad jetting causing the yellow flames.
http://www.woodgaz-stove.com/

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