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Re: 35 miles of day hikes in Olympic National Park...

Posted: Fri Feb 06, 2015 8:12 am
by ConnieD
This is a particularly dangerous stretch of beaches, I survived, not without rescue of one member of our hiking party.

I saw no ladders in place. I had one entire beach of rocks go roaring out with every wave and riaring in with every wave. In storm surge, far out in the ocean, bring enormous logs up tossing about like kindling in the waves and high tide reached our knees pulled up close. The high tide easily could have drowned all of us there.

The PNT Pacific Northwest Trail shows the beaches discussed in this thread is a part of the official PNT Pacific Northwest Trail.

Is this true? If so, I will write

Re: 35 miles of day hikes in Olympic National Park...

Posted: Fri Feb 06, 2015 1:45 pm
by zelph
Hopefully Realityguy can answer your question. He's familiar with the trail.

Re: 35 miles of day hikes in Olympic National Park...

Posted: Fri Feb 06, 2015 4:34 pm
by ConnieD
I hope he shows up.

I am looking at the map.

I hiked the Sandy trail out from Lake Ozette, south to Rialto Beach.

Re: 35 miles of day hikes in Olympic National Park...

Posted: Fri Feb 06, 2015 6:54 pm
by realityguy
What are the questions(?)..I've hiked most of the coast except for about 8 miles of the middle of the middle section(Have been in 8 miles from Ozette south and about 5 miles in from Rialto Beach Northbound.and missed about 4 miles of the upper section around Point of the Arches.I walk by myself and usually go in from both ends at different times for overnight stays..why I miss some "middles" of 20 mile sections)..Most areas do have rope ladders(ropes or cables on sides with those red colored rounded 4x4 thingies in between every 18" or so with a rope for your hands..) or stairs carved into banks where they feel they are needed.Of course the tides have to be watched(tide charts consulted, and valid maps used.Hiking needs to be done in time with the tides being out in a lot of places.The heads or points extending out into the ocean are usually marked on maps as to trails around them verses having to go over them and at what tide levels are needed to get around them..usually below a 4.0' tide level is needed for most as a general rule.Hiking at high tide is not too smart.Most people prepare themselves to settle down for a nap during high tide times next to a point that needs to be rounded..wait and then round the point when it is low again...
Timing of all portions of your trip is critical on the coast,especially wintertime when surf can be huge..During the summer we get lower and longer tides and days;sometimes "two low tide days"(which are best)..making that the time to go,especially with less storm surf..usually calm water..
The Pacific Northwest Trail isn't talked about much around here..compared to the Pacific CREST Trail..two totally different trails..I haven't really done either,except for small portions from other trails that intersect them..
Ozette to Rialto(where you've been)..the first three miles from Ozette is boardwalks to Sandy Point..I "dayhiked" travel light and get that in about 50 minutes..the next three miles or so is pretty much packed sand(Sandy Beach and below) that turns into gravel and eventually rocky beaches a couple hours in(7-1/2 to 8 milkes roundtrip was about 5hours with lunch(I TRAVEL LIGHT).Below that..Where I haven't supposed to be some "cannonball" rocky,slippery nasty beaches between heads for several miles..don't know after that until the Chilean Memorial from the other end which was pretty much flat beaches at Rialto..then "tidal rock shelves" between sandy/rocky the memorial where I turned around.The middle section I've only had "short day" trips due to time constraints working on other projects.
That middle section I was going to do a through hike this last year but bad timing and my bad knees prevented that.

Re: 35 miles of day hikes in Olympic National Park...

Posted: Sat Feb 07, 2015 4:52 pm
by ConnieD
I thought you said there was treacherous beach there, so you didn't hike that stretch of beach.

The PNT Pacific Northwest Trail is getting "attention" because Chris Townsend hiked it, and now, Pacific Northwest Trail Digest has been published. Backpacker Magazine also has highlighted scenic portions of the trail.

I hiked it, in college. Like I said, no ladders or any alternate in sight. There was a storm far out in the ocean that made tides higher. That one entire beach of handpalm-size black rocks waves pulled the rocks roaring out with every wave and roaring in with every wave.

If this stretch of beach has ladders or any alternate, since I hiked it in college, well and good.

If it is the stretch you wouldn't hike, and, you live reasonably nearby, I don't think it should be part of a national scenic trail.

1. They recently got national scenic trail designation.

2. There are topographic maps as PDF available at the website.

3. This had become very public information: not something for experienced beach-combers it had been.

This is my concern.

Re: 35 miles of day hikes in Olympic National Park...

Posted: Thu Feb 12, 2015 12:30 am
by realityguy
If I had a proper chance..I'd hike it all..that is hikable..None of it bothers me.I just can never find anyone else that wants to go...With two people,two can park one at each end and "through-hike" about 50 miles of beach..or do sections about 21,17 and 13 miles..
The lower section... from Oil City to 3rd beach by Lapush..the wife and I did with an overnight stay at Toleak Point..we had a "two tide day" and could have hiked out the same day to the Third beach parking lot..but decided to stay and not pack out the full cans of beer...
The middle section.. I was planning on doing it by myself approximately 10+ miles from each end with overnights in the middle at the Norwegian Memorial/Kayostla Beachcampsites there..rock/boulder beaches don't bother me..I grew up on Puget Sound waterfront property..jumping slippery rocks,walking railroad track rails for miles...I just didn't get the time to do it before my knees went bad.I'm hoping maybe this next year my knees will be better..
The upper section...I need to go in from one end about 10 miles in and finish the middle 3 miles I'm missing.I've been from the north end(parking lot to Shi-Shi Beach to Point of The Arches and back(12 miles roundtrip easy dayhike)..I need to go overland about a mile or so there and then a couple miles on the beach to where I had gotten up to from myself.I've hiked in to the campground tentsites just above the Ozette River a couple times..once even went a couple miles further to the next campground..and ended up going back to the parking lot..about 15miles total.
The upper section (ozette to shi-shi parking lot)..3 miles of board walks,then three miles of beaches with one small rocky cove..over a small head with a rope(or go around at low tide..done both)..then across the Ozette river at low tide(high's deep!Campgrounds on both sides of the river.When the tide is in and you are on the north side of the river..You may have 5 miles of beach to yourself!The next three miles or so are gravelly beaches intermixed with sand patches..the three miles I haven't done is two miles of sand/gravel(I can see it)..then one mile over a head and drop down to Shi-Shi..which is nothing but a wide sandy beach..passable at high tide close to the driftwood line..
The middle section..Ozette(good,safe place to leave your car!) starts with 3 miles of boardwalks to Sandy Point..then about 3 miles of wide sandy beaches..round one small head is all(easy)..then Yellow Banks Beach for a mile or so..then sand/small rocky beaches in as far as I have been at about 7-1/2 hike back to the car 15 miles or so.Below that I think is where Connie hit the nastier boulder beaches and heads..
Ozette..also has a triangle 9 mile trail of 3miles of boardwalks too Cape Alava..then three miles down the beach to Sandy Point(in between are sandy/gravel/and small boulder beaches..nothing terrible)..then 3 miles of boardwalks back to the parking lot on the Sandy Point/Ozette trail..nice day hike of coastal woods and beaches...
The lower section...we hiked South to North..Start alongside the Hoh the sandy point(low tide) has huge boulders you have to work around..a small sandy cove after that..then rope ladders to the trail on Hoh Head..about 2-3 miles through the woods across the head..drop back down to the beach at Mosquito Creek(shoelace depth trickle when we went)..about two kiles or so of sandy beaches..then across another head crossing Goodman Creek and another while in the woods(we got lost trying to find the #$%$#$ trail for an hour)and to rope ladders at the north end of the head(where they were all busted up) that drop down to about a mile plus of wide sandy beach before reaching Toleak Point(nice views of seastacks,seals,otters,eagles,etc(why we stay there)and excellent campsites in a treed strip adjacent to the beach.From Toleak heading north is a large cove of sand and gravel sections to Strawberry Head..still walking the beaches..a tiny point you can go around to a 4.0 tide(rope over..)then into Scott's Cove/Bluff/Camp..rocky beach..then gravel beach..go over Scott's Bluff through the woods for a mile(low tide..boulder hop under it)..Down wood steps/rope ladders/or cut in steps(I've seen all three at different times) down the muddy slope that keeps caving...another sandy cove with large boulders you need to walk between..over(rope) or around a small point..tiny gravel cove/campsite..then climb some steep "Sasquatch" wood steps to get to the top of Taylor Head..about 2 miles of woods..more rope ladders down to Third Beach...a mile of sandy beach to the trail up the bank and through the woods to the parking lot on La Push Road...about 13.5 miles I think..
Third Beach to Rialto..only access is to follow the road about 3 miles..hitch a ride...You have to get across the mouth of the Quillayute River system(Bogachiel,Calawah,Soleduck drop into the Q..become one near the mouth).Rialto Beach has big waves sometimes with a steep beach of small gravel and sand for a couple miles(hmm..seems like 1-1/2 miles to Hole -in -The Wall)..Trhough the cave through the head(ropes to go over if you have to...then small coves and gravel beachs..some boulder areas..some level tidal shelf areas..for a couple miles..a section of boul;ders and drop down to gravel and sand beaches by the Chilean Memorial at about 5-5-1/2 miles in..That's as far as I've been with the visual about another mile of that cove and level tidal shelf I didn't get to..
Beyond that is supposed to be mopre of the same with several heads that need to be rounded at low tides..maybe some you need to go over.About 8 miles in I think you start hitting good beaches and places to camp..what I'll shoot for someday.I figure I'll go in ten miles on a couple easy during the highs..then walk again when it is back out..each way..You just have to do your planning before you go...
I DO travel light..there is water along the way..I'd probably pack only 20 lbs maximum on overnights.The most I EVER carry is 25lbs..and that's when I'm packing a gallon of water or so..

Re: 35 miles of day hikes in Olympic National Park...

Posted: Thu Feb 12, 2015 1:02 pm
by ConnieD
I thought you had said it was considered unsafe, not that you couldn't get anyone to hike with you.

It wasn't slippery rocks or boulders, it was the entire beach of hand palm size black rocks that moved out with a roar with each outgoing wave and roared in with each incoming wave. I got thru it, highstepping like the drum major at the front of the parade, and so did others.

However, lucky to be alive is not a national scenic trail.

I am interested in the fact that beach is too unsafe for a national scenic trail.

Look at how completely inexperienced people are who try to hike the AT and the PCT.

It is my experience, rope ladders reputed to exist and trails over headlands aren't there and haven't been there a very long time. For one thing, the erosion of that raw and wild beachhead is so considerable the beachheads sloughed off, that and overgrowth of green plants elsewhere.

Re: 35 miles of day hikes in Olympic National Park...

Posted: Thu Feb 12, 2015 9:55 pm
by realityguy
It's like any other trail..a person has to prepare and find out about them before going..ALL trails have hazards...Unknown fallen trees,snow sections,washouts,big and small critters,possible weather changes,high rivers..they constantly change(and appear out of the blue) and people need to be aware of possible things and hazzards before they attempt the trails.The beaches to me are plenty safe..IF one hikes with the right tides and knowledge about their changes(you can print out tide charts from the net..highs,lows,times,and feet)...Tide hazzards and minimal tide point passages are stated everywhere in the ONP...even maps and warnings posted at trailheads and on websites..and some maps have all points marked that need to be rounded or if they are necessary to go over the top..(ONP maps).
No..I don't hike new trails without having a pretty good idea of what I'm going to run into..only a fool does that.

Re: 35 miles of day hikes in Olympic National Park...

Posted: Fri Feb 13, 2015 12:18 pm
by zelph
It wasn't slippery rocks or boulders, it was the entire beach of hand palm size black rocks that moved out with a roar with each outgoing wave and roared in with each incoming wave. I got thru it, highstepping like the drum major at the front of the parade, and so did others.
The rocks moving in and out with the waves sounds scary but I would have braved them just to see Connie highstepping like a drum major at the front of the parade :mrgreen:

Must be a majestic site the coastline there at the ONP...Lucky you are to have been there to see it!!!

Re: 35 miles of day hikes in Olympic National Park...

Posted: Sat Feb 14, 2015 12:58 pm
by realityguy
I was trying to get a good shot at the map of the PNT to get an idea of the beach sections they actually take..It appears they follow the Hoh River down from the Olympics and start at the southern point of the three sections at what is called Oil City(mouth of the Hoh) to Cape Alava...which should be about 33-35 miles or so of coastline...the two lower sections of the trail...Oil City to Third Beach..and Rialto to Cape Alava..which would take in the section Connie took years ago.
One account I looked at from a journal along the trail doesn't make a whole lot of sense..saying what I thought he said was 12 miles of mention of a possible hitchhike needed between the two sections(13 miles and 21 miles sections,about 3miles of road between)..and not much account of the actual beach time/conditions there...
I was thinking maybe he just did the Ozette Triangle trail..which would be about 9 miles...but he'd have to walk or hitchike about 20 miles of road to get to the Ozette Ranger Station to start/end the trail..He said he was hitchhiking by Forks..which would have been north of Oil City and maybe he started at Rialto Beach to Ozette..a distance of 21 miles or so(depending on how you finsih around the Ozette Triangle).Appears he might have been lost as to where he really was..
His account of his beach time is more confusing than of the things I've run into trying to get information about sections of the trail from a local website(NWhikers)..We were trying to find out about Mosquito Creek as to whether it was a raging river mouth to cross or typical piddly stream along the mention about it.When we finally got there trying to time the tides right for the "unknown"..someone had laid a short 2x4 across it to keep their sandals dry... :roll: :lol: I've since posted info there about Mosquito Creek for other people that wondered...

Of course accounts of the area can be different at different times of the year,seasons, and tides.You CAN hike it in the wintertime with the area being more brutal with storms,high surf,washed out beaches(whole sections of beach sand can disappear to leave only Connie's moving rocks with high surf and the normal heavy rainfall of the area),fallen trees,washed out cliffs, and piles of driftwood..that may not have been there before the last storm.The coast is constantly changing..I've hiked the same trail to Toleak Point three times about a month apart..DURING THE SUMMER and FALL... and sections of the trail and beach contours and surface were different each time.Things constantly wash away..more overhead sections of cliffs and trees are now on the beach.You just have to schedule your hikes during the low tide times to stay safe and away from most of the changes..hard sand is easier to walk on....stop/rest/camp when it is high tide..Two low-tide days(summer..morning and evening 12 hours apart)give you 5 miles of for 4-5 hours..then another 5 miles or so of hiking again..and arriving at a campground good to go for more!