MK1-UL

Here's the place you can post your favorite wood burning stove and also information on how to build and where to get supplies.
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ConnieD
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MK1-UL

Post by ConnieD » Mon Jul 12, 2010 6:50 pm

I promised a video.

It isn't easy.

I made a video, but my laptop isn't up to the job for editing or for playing. I had to put it on Pause and move the slider and make "snapshots" of the video with Hypersnap DX software.

Here are representative photos, in sequence.

size of wood: very small diameter twigs on left side
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size of wood: finger diameter twigs on right side
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split hardwood
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that's it: very little wood at all
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lit from bottom
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white smoke ...
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burns off moisture
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high flames ...
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more white smoke
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higher flames
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fire settles down: 3.5 minutes
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small flames: pan of water in place
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MK1-UL: 2 Cups water rolling boil in 3 minutes 14 seconds
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wood and pinecones: I didn't need
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Last edited by ConnieD on Mon Jul 12, 2010 11:24 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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zelph
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Re: MK1-UL

Post by zelph » Mon Jul 12, 2010 8:48 pm

Nice photos from the video, good job :D

Did you use about 2 cups of wood or less? Looks like you had more paper than wood in the stove.

3min 14 seconds......that's fast...................excellent.

Thank you ConnieD for doing the test for us.................we love the fire part of testing :shock:

Daren, my son says use a close tolerance punch and die with a dodad attached to the body of the punch. I can't remember the real name of the semi hard/compressable silicon rubber collar. It extends beyond the cutting surface of the punch. It comes in contact with the material to be cut before the punch. It compresses to hold the material while being punched and removes the material from the punch as the punch rises up out of the material being punched. I have a 2 foot length of the material that can be cut to length as needed. It's for 1/2" diameter punches. let me know if you want to try some, no charge.

Edited to include info found on google:

http://www.thefabricator.com/article/pu ... l-punching
http://www.woodgaz-stove.com/

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ConnieD
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Re: MK1-UL

Post by ConnieD » Mon Jul 12, 2010 10:33 pm

I had three tightly balled up pieces (half page each) from that newspaper on the ground.

I am used to having a "twiggy fire" directly under the cooking pot, with the cooking pot propped up just enough on the finger diameter twigs or small pebbles for a small gap only big enough to shove twigs under the cooking pot.

I had only the wood you see inside. I did not "add" wood as the fire was going. I have pictures of reheating the water to "smoking" water and bubbling boil, which is hot enough to make coffee, tea or other "hot water" drink or soup, after 15 minutes.

The wood used is on the left side. The wood not used is on the right side.
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The fire continued one-half hour.

The only remaining "coals" were small bits from the hardwood: all other wood was burned to a fine ash.
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Last edited by ConnieD on Mon Jul 12, 2010 11:26 pm, edited 3 times in total.

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ConnieD
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Re: MK1-UL

Post by ConnieD » Mon Jul 12, 2010 11:11 pm

As far as I am concerned, this is how to have a wood fire in a U.S. National Forest.

the site: mineral soil
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coals are present
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coals are still hot
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flooded a half dozen times
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fire "dead out"
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versus this
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and that
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sign:
WANTED
Your Campfire
DEAD-OUT!

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ConnieD
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Re: MK1-UL

Post by ConnieD » Tue Jul 13, 2010 9:15 am

The first burn was at the Clark Fork (river) U.S. Forest Service campground past the bridge out from St. Regis, MT.

I believe there would have been no coals, if I did not include the split pieces of that hardwood.

I don't know about you, but when I am backpacking I usually want either a hot drink or hot soup right away and to have all of my dinner prepared inside a half hour.

This little lightweight wood stove will do the job.

I do like to enjoy a beautiful campsite. I can do that without a wood fire.

Nevertheless, there is a very primal satisfaction of having a small cooking fire.

I especially like how this is a "leave no trace" wood fire. There is no ugly "fire ring" and if I did not use those pieces of split hardwood, I believe all of the fire would have been reduced to a fine ash.

The coals hold heat. That is what required the repeated applications of water. If totally "flooded" the weight and flow of the water can drive the coals into the ground. I wanted those small bits of burning coals on the surface to be sure they were entirely cold.

That is the only way to know if a fire that has "coals" is dead-out.

If I am in a hurry, I would use no hardwood.

This is an excellent backpacking wood stove. Thank you, DarenN.

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ConnieD
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Re: MK1-UL

Post by ConnieD » Tue Jul 13, 2010 1:13 pm

Image

5.3 ounces

JBRanger
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Re: MK1-UL

Post by JBRanger » Tue Jul 13, 2010 3:23 pm

So where can one procure this stove?? :)

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DarenN
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Re: MK1-UL

Post by DarenN » Tue Jul 13, 2010 3:28 pm

JBRanger wrote:So where can one procure this stove?? :)
i haven't made them available yet. i'll announce here when i get some ready for sale.
"I'd rather be happy than right." Slartibartfast

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zelph
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Re: MK1-UL

Post by zelph » Tue Jul 13, 2010 8:41 pm

Lots of good information in your report Connie, thank you!!!! Now you can forward it to the next one in line for the bounce box or just skip it over to me :DB:

Daren, don't let any grass grow under your feet making them available for purchase in the good ole USofA :mrgreen:
http://www.woodgaz-stove.com/

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ConnieD
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Re: MK1-UL

Post by ConnieD » Tue Jul 13, 2010 8:46 pm

Too late, zelph. The "bounce box" left days ago.

I will just have to keep the MK1-UL.

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