Here is my Tornado Cat alcohol burner. I started with Jim Wood's Simmer Cat, added an inner wall with pressurized jets angled inward to produce a tornado-like flame (used by JSB, KMKMR22, LittleBitWorks, Tetkoba, and others), and lined the walls with capillary hoops. I do not add grooves or creases to the capillary hoops (or virtual wicks, as Don Hitchcock would call them). There is no need for a strip skirt, due to the shape and size of the cans used. I form the capillary hoops from strips of aluminum. I join the ends without fasteners, since eyelets or staples would interfere with assembly.
I use the pull tab to remove the top of a 3 ounce aluminum can of cat food or potted meat. I roll the inner lip downward, flush with the inside of the can, using the side of my center punch. I remove the bottom 4 mm, leaving 33 mm. I leave the cut edge rough to allow fuel to flow freely to the capillary hoops. I used a compass, pen, ruler, and circle cutter to make a 63 mm disc with 9 evenly spaced lines extending from the center to the edge. I use the disc to place 9 evenly spaced marks around the top edge of the can, as seen in picture 2. I press the center punch into each mark at the line where the inside diameter decreases. I use a #70 drill bit and a rotary tool to drill 0.71 mm holes into the indentations, through two layers of aluminum. I angle the drill bit as seen in picture 3.
I cut two 25 mm wide strips of aluminum from the side of an aluminum beverage container. I use a 23 fluid ounce Arizona tea can, but a 12 fluid ounce soda can would also provide suitable (and thinner) material. I wrap the first strip tightly around the cat food can and mark the overlap. I add 1 mm to the circumference and join the ends by cutting tabs along both edges of the overlap, and bending the tabs outward (away from the cat food can). See pictures 4 and 5.
I remove the top of a steel 4.25 ounce Underwood deviled ham can with a "safety" side cutting can opener. I wrap the second 25 mm wide strip tightly around the inside of the steel can and mark the overlap. I subtract 1 mm from the circumference and join the ends with tabs cut along both edges of the overlap, bending the tabs inward (away from the steel can). See pictures 6 and 7.
I place the top 33 mm of the cat food can upside down on the table, slip both capillary hoops over the cat food can, and press the steel can down around them. I flip the steel can right side up, and push the cat food can into the steel can until it rests on the bottom. See pictures 8, 9, and 10. I punch 27 evenly spaced 3/16" diameter holes in a row centered 5/16" down from the edge of the steel can, as seen in picture 11.
For more pictures, please see http://www.appalachiantrailcafe.net/gal ... ol-burner/
we need photos 